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Fencing

Cedar vs pine fence

Is a cedar fence better than pine?

Cedar has natural oils that resist rot and insects, and it moves less as it dries. Pine is cheaper up front and relies on chemical treatment for the protection cedar has built in.

What cedar actually has going for it

Cedar contains natural compounds that make it unappealing to insects and slow to decay. That protection is in the wood rather than applied to the surface, so a cut end is still cedar.

It's also dimensionally calmer. All wood shrinks as it dries, but cedar warps and twists less doing it, which matters over a run of a few hundred pickets.

Where pine makes sense

Cost. Treated pine is meaningfully cheaper, and for a temporary enclosure, a job-site fence, or a boundary you expect to redo, it's a reasonable choice.

Treated pine also has legitimate structural uses — it's common in rails and framing where the wood stays dry and off the ground.

The part that isn't about the pickets

This comparison gets argued about at the picket level and decided at the post level. A cedar fence on rotting posts fails on the same schedule as a pine one on rotting posts.

If the budget only stretches to one upgrade, put it underground.

How they age

Cedar weathers to a silver-grey and keeps its shape. Pine tends to show its treatment as it ages and is more likely to cup and twist.

Both take stain. Cedar holds it more evenly.

Cedar buys you fewer surprises. Posts buy you years.

Questions

Can I mix cedar pickets with treated rails?
It's common and it's fine, provided the parts touching the ground are chosen for ground contact. The mix is about putting each material where it performs.
Does cedar need to be sealed?
Not to survive. Sealing keeps the color and slows the greying — an appearance decision rather than a structural one.

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